Electrical > Indoor Electrical Safety Check - 04

Before You Plug Into Electricity,
Plug Into Electrical Safety - The Checklist


Light Bulbs

We’ve come to take the light bulb for grant­ed, but there is a wide variety of bulbs avail­able that provide different levels and quality of light, and that demand different levels of power. Make sure you are selecting the bulbs that are appropriate for your intended use and for the power rating of the intended lamp or fixture.

• Use a bulb of the correct type and watt­age. If you do not know the correct watt­age, contact the manufacturer of the lamp or fixture.
• Read and follow light bulb manufacturers’ safety instructions.
• Make sure bulbs are screwed in securely —loose bulbs may overheat.
• Place halogen floor lamps (torchieres) away from curtains, beds, rugs or other furnishings. These lamps can become very hot and can cause a fire hazard. Consider replacing halogen torchiere lamps with models that use cooler, more efficient flu­orescent bulbs.

Portable Space Heaters

Portable space heaters can be a blessing in a cold and drafty house in the deep of winter. But space heaters, and any electrical product with a heating element, can demand a lot of power. By their nature, they also produce a lot of heat, and, if not used carefully, can become a fire hazard. Make sure to follow these safety principles with portable space heaters:

• Plug portable space heaters directly into an outlet; do not use an extension cord.
• Make certain the circuit into which you plug a space heater can adequately and safely handle the added demand.
• Never remove the grounding feature on a plug by clipping or grinding off the third prong.
• Use an adapter to connect the heater’s 3-prong plug, if you do not have a 3-hole outlet. Make sure the adapter ground wire or tab is attached to the outlet ground.
• Relocate heaters away from passageways and keep all flammable materials such as curtains, rugs, furniture or newspaper at least three feet away.
• Unplug and safely store portable space heaters when not in use.

Small Appliances and Tools

Follow these simple safety precautions with all your small appliances and tools:

• Make certain all small appliances and tools are approved by an independent testing laboratory, such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL), ETL-SEMKO (ETL) or Canadian Standards Association (CSA). (See example on page 18.)
• Use small appliances and power tools according to the manufacturer’s instruc­tions.
• Unplug all small electrical appliances, such as hair dryers, shavers, curling irons, clothes irons, and toasters, when not in use.
• Be sure you have ground fault circuit inter­rupter (GFCI) protection anywhere elec­tricity and water are within six feet of each other, such as in your kitchen, bathroom and outdoors, to protect against electric shock. For more information, see the sec­tion on GFCIs, page 25.
• Take any damaged electrical appliance or tool to an authorized repair center, or cut the cord, safely dispose of the item, and purchase a new one.
• Never reach into water to get an appliance that has fallen in without being sure the appliance is unplugged or the circuit is shut off.
• Do not tuck in electric blankets.
• Don’t allow anything on top of the blan­ket while it is in use. This includes other blankets or comforters and even pets sleeping on top of the blanket.
• Do not use electric blankets on children.
• Never go to sleep with a heating pad that is turned on. It can burn you. Newer heating pads have an automatic cut off switch.
• Check to make sure power tools have a 3-prong plug or double-insulated cords, and consider replacing old tools that have neither.
• Use a properly grounded 3-prong adapter for connecting a 3-prong to a 2-hole re­ceptacle.
• Consider using a portable GFCI when us­ing power tools.
• Replace guards that have been removed from power tools.
• There have been many recalls of power tools due to problems with the safety guard sticking. Be sure your model has not been recalled, as this hazard poses a serious risk of injury. Check online at ....
• Check power tools before each use for frayed cords, broken plugs or cracked housing.

Test and Protect!—Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)

Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs)—which protect against accidental electric shock or electrocution by acting immediately to shut off the circuit if they sense a ground fault, or “leak” of current off the circuit—have been in homes since the early 70s on circuits that come within six feet of water. Homeowners, however, should consider having GFCI protec­tion on general purpose receptacles through­out the home.

• There are outlet GFCIs protecting every­thing in that outlet and downstream on the circuit, circuit breaker GFCIs protect­ing the entire circuit, or portable GFCIs that protect just at the point of use.

A GFCI-protected outlet can provide power without giving an indication that it is no lon­ger providing shock protection. Be sure your GFCI is providing protection from fatal elec­tric shock by testing it monthly and after every major electrical storm.

• You should test your GFCIs monthly and after every major electrical storm. Here’s how:
  
  
  * Push the “Reset” button of the GFCI receptacle to prepare the unit for testing.
  * Plug in a night light and turn it on. Light should be ON.
  * Push the “Test” button of the GFCI receptacle. Light should go OFF.
  * Push the “Reset” button again. Light should go ON.
  
  A light plugged into the GFCI receptacle should go out when the test button is pushed. If the light remains on when the button is pushed, either the GFCI is not working prop­erly or has not been correctly installed. If the “RESET” button pops out but the light does not go out, the GFCI has been damaged or was improperly wired and does not offer shock protection at that wall outlet. Contact a quali­fied electrician to correct any wiring errors or replace defective GFCIs.
• If you have a home without GFCIs, con­sult a qualified, licensed electrician about adding this important protection, or pur­chase plug-in units or a portable GFCI to provide individual receptacle or load pro­tection.

Electrical > Indoor Electrical Safety Check - 03

Before You Plug Into Electricity,
Plug Into Electrical Safety - The Checklist



With your circuit map and power audit done, it’s time to take a run through the house with a keen eye on safety. Use the following checklist on a regular basis to en­sure your home remains electrically safe year in and year out. If you haven’t already had an electrical inspection performed by a qualified, licensed electrician or electrical inspector, this list can also help identify clues that an inspec­tion and/or repairs are needed.


Fuses/Circuit Breakers

Fuses and circuit breakers are safety devices lo­cated in your electrical panel that help prevent overloading and fires. They stop the electrical current if it exceeds the safe level for some por­tion of the home electrical system. Overload­ing means that the appliances and lighting on the circuit regularly demand more electrical current than the circuit can safely deliver.

If the demand for electrical current ex­ceeds the safety level, a fuse opens once and must be replaced to reconnect the circuit. A cir­cuit breaker “trips” its switch to open the cir­cuit, and the circuit is reconnected by closing the switch manually.


Fuses

Replacing a correct size fuse with a larger size fuse can present a serious fire hazard. Doing so will allow excessive current to flow and pos­sibly overload the outlet and the house wiring to the point that a fire can begin.

• Be certain that correct-size fuses are used (if you do not know the correct sizes, have a qualified, licensed electrician identify and label the sizes to be used).

NOTE:
Fuses should be rated according to the wire that makes up the branch circuit, not the connected load. Most of the screw-based fuses used should be 15 amperes. Ensure that all fuses rated higher than 15 amperes are compatible with the branch circuit wiring.


Edison-base/S-type Fuses

Consumers sometimes replace a fuse that re­peatedly “blows” with a higher ampere rated fuse. Although the new fuse may not open, it also may not protect the branch circuit. Do­ing so masks the real problem of too high a demand being placed on the circuit. The fuse will not open at the appropriate load for that circuit.

Instead of using an inappropriate fuse, take something off the circuit to bring the de­mand to an appropriate level.

• To prevent future installation of fuses that allow currents too high for your wiring, your fuse panel should be converted to S-type sockets that accept only fuses of the correct amperage rating. If you have Edison-base fuse sockets, have them fitted with the S-type socket inserts.

If fuses continue to “blow,” keep track of which branch circuits are affected and which appliances are in use when the power outage occurs. Consult a qualified, licensed electri­cian to correct the problem.

Circuit Breakers

Just like fuses, circuit breakers provide over­current protection by opening the circuit, or “tripping” when an unsafe level of demand has been placed on the circuit.

Circuit breakers are also rated for various current levels, such as 15 or 20 amps. Breaker systems offer more flexibility for new protec­tive technologies like ground fault circuit inter­rupters (GFCIs) and arc fault circuit interrupt­ers (AFCIs). They also offer you the ability to reset the breaker once ripped, getting lights up and running quickly to prevent accidents resulting from the lack of power in the home. Resetting a circuit breaker is quicker than re­placing a fuse and avoids the hazards of over-sized fuses.

When resetting a tripped circuit breaker, be aware that your circuit breaker may trip to an intermediate position close to “ON” in­stead of the “OFF” position (sometimes it is difficult to see that it has tripped). To reset, move the switch fully to “OFF” and then to “ON.”

• Before resetting a tripped circuit breaker, turn off or unplug appliances or lamps on the circuit to bring the demand back down to an acceptable level.

Outlets & Switches

Switches are used to turn the power on and off. Outlets, or receptacles, are usually mount­ed on a wall or floor to supply electricity through a cord and plug to appliances, lamps, TV, etc. These are the key points in our electri­cal systems that give us our first line of control to our electrical use, and they are critical con­nection points. With time and use, these con­nections can become loose, creating potential hazards.

• Check to make sure outlet and switch plates are not unusually hot to the touch. If they are, immediately unplug cords from these outlets and do not use the switches. Have a qualified, licensed electrician check the wiring as soon as possible.
• Look for discoloration as another indica­tion of potentially dangerous heat build­up at these connections. Stand across the room and look for a tear-drop shaped darkening around and above outlet and switch cover plates.
  With outlet and switch cover plates, warm to the touch may be okay, but hot is not.
• Check that all outlet and switch cover plates are in good condition so that no wiring is exposed. Replace any missing, cracked or broken cover plate.
• Be sure to use safety caps with unused outlets.

Power Cords

Power cords, part of electrical products and appliances, connect the item to the power sup­ply by plugging into the outlet. They need to be kept in good condition. Even an electrical item that is in otherwise good working order can still represent a shock and fire hazard if its power cord is damaged.

• Check to make sure electrical cords are in­tact and in good condition, not frayed or cracked.
• Check to make sure lamp, extension, tele­phone and other cords are placed out of the flow of traffic. Cords stretched across walkways may cause someone to trip. If you must use an extension cord, place it on the floor against a wall where people cannot trip over it.
• Whenever possible, arrange furniture so that outlets are available for lamps, enter­tainment products, or appliances without the use of extension cords.
• Check to make sure furniture is not rest­ing on cords.
• Check to make sure electrical cords do not run under furniture or carpeting, or behind baseboards.
• Check to make sure electrical cords are not attached to the walls, baseboards, etc. with nails or staples. Disconnect power before removing nails and staples from on or around electrical cords.
• Do not attempt to repair cords yourself. Take any item with a damaged power cord to an authorized repair center, or cut the cord, safely dispose of the item, and pur­chase a new one.

Extension Cords

Extension cords can be very helpful in deliver­ing power right where we need it. However, no matter what the gauge or rating of the cord is, the extension cord is designed as a temporary

solution, not as long-term extension of your household’s electrical system. With continu­ous use, the extension cord can more rapidly deteriorate, creating a potentially dangerous electric shock or fire hazard. In addition to the same safety tips that apply to power cords, keep the following principles in mind when using extension cords.

• Extension cords should only be used on a temporary basis; they are not in­tended as permanent household wiring. Unplug and safely store extension cords after every use.
• A heavy reliance on extension cords is an indication that you have too few outlets to address your needs. Have additional out­lets installed where you need them.
• Make sure extension cords are properly rated for their intended use, indoor or outdoor, and meet or exceed the pow­er needs of the appliance or tool being plugged into it.
• Assume 125W per amp when calculating power (wattage) to determine if the exten­sion cord you intend to use is properly rat­ed for the appliance being connected to it.
• Replace No. 18 gauge cords with No. 16 gauge cords. Older extension cords using small (No. 18 gauge) wires will overheat at 15 amps or 20 amps.
• Change the cord to a higher rated one or unplug some appliances, if the rating on the cord is exceeded because of the power requirements of one or more appliances being used on the cord.
• Use cords with polarized and/or three-prong plugs.
• Buy only cords approved by an indepen­dent testing laboratory, such as Underwrit­ers Laboratories (UL), ETL-SEMKO (ETL) or Canadian Standards Association (CSA).

Power strips and surge protection

Power strips give us the ability to plug more products into the same outlet, which can be a help, but also a hindrance to safety if used in­appropriately. Power strips and surge suppres­sors don’t provide more power to a location, just more access to the same limited capacity of the circuit into which it is connected. The circuit likely also still serves a variety of other outlets and fixtures in addition to the multiple electrical items you might be supplying with the power strip. In addition to the tips above, keep these safety principles in mind when us­ing power strips and surge suppressors.

• Be sure you are not overloading the circuit. Know capacity of the circuit and the pow­er requirements of all the electrical items plugged into the power strip and into all the other outlets on the circuit as well as the light fixtures on the circuit.
• A heavy reliance power strips is an indica­tion that you have too few outlets to ad­dress your needs. Have additional outlets installed where you need them.
• Understand that surge suppressors only protect the items plugged into it, not back along the circuit into which it is con­nected.
• In the event of a large surge or spike, such as a lightning strike, the surge suppressor is a one-time-use protector and will likely have to be replaced.
• Consider purchasing surge suppressors with cable and phone jacks to provide the same protection to your phone, fax, com­puter modem and television.
• Not all power strips are surge suppressors, not all surge suppressors can handle the same load and events. Be sure the equip­ment you buy matches your needs.
• For homes in areas with a high incidence of lightning, consider having a surge ar­restor installed at the fuse box or breaker panel for whole house protection

Electrical > Indoor Electrical Safety Check - 02

Tips For The Safe Indoor Use of Electricity


CIRCUIT MAP AND POWER AUDIT


While you cannot perform your own electrical inspection unless you’re a qualified, licensed electrician or electrical in­spector, something you can do is create a de­tailed circuit map and perform a power audit. This is not a substitute for an electrical inspec­tion, but it will help you establish and main­tain a safer electrical system.

A good circuit map goes beyond what the sticker on the inside of the electrical panel door provides. It details every receptacle and fixture each circuit serves. To create one is a simple, though admittedly time-consuming process of shutting off a single circuit at a time and determining which outlets and lighting fixtures have been affected each time.

As you proceed, note what appliances are plugged in at each receptacle. Circuits can on­ly handle a specified total wattage of all the electrical products connected to that circuit. If too much wattage is demanded from a circuit, serious electrical problems can result. Here is an easy equation to use to determine what a circuit can handle:


Volts x Amps = Watts
Your electrical panel will indicate your system’s voltage, and each fuse or circuit breaker is marked for its amperage. Using the equation above, a 15-amp circuit in a 120-volt system can carry a total of 1800 watts. It is not recommended that you exceed 80% of the to­tal circuit capacity at any given time, in this case 1,440 watts.


Now, find the nameplate on each appli­ance indicating its power rating in watts. Note the appliance and its power rating on the entry for that circuit. Lamps and light fixtures, too, should note the maximum wattage they can take. If you cannot find the power rating, con­tact the manufacturer.

Some common household examples in watts:

Hair dryer ................................... 1600
Deep Fryer .................................. 1500
Portable Heater ........................... 1500
Iron............................................. 1000
Vacuum Cleaner............................. 600
Portable Fan.................................. 150
Television ...................................... 150
Computer ...................................... 150
VCR ................................................. 40
Stereo ............................................. 30
Light bulbs................ 40, 60, 75 or 100


Finally, do the math. Add up the power demand of every appliance and fixture draw­ing power from the circuit. A typical entry in the circuit map should look like this:


Circuit #3— Kitchen—20 amps
Total allowable capacity (80% of total capacity) = 1920 watts
Serves three receptacles along the north and west walls of the kitchen, the kitch­en ceiling lighting fixture (120 watts), and light fixture over the sink (60 watts). Appliances plugged into receptacles include the coffee maker (800 watts), toaster (800 watts), radio (30 watts), phone/answering machine (100 watts).
Total demand on circuit = 1,910 watts.


If your total exceeds what the circuit is designed to provide, you may have a dan­gerous overload and should take immediate measures to alleviate the demands on that circuit by moving some appliances to another less taxed circuit, or by adding another circuit. In fact, you may find the total demand on your entire system exceeds the service to your home. In that case, consider contracting with your utility for a “heavy up”, or upgrade to a higher level of electrical service.


A good circuit map will let you know at a glance, which circuits are overloaded and which are still available for additional use. Al­so, in the event of an electric shock or electri­cal fire, or if you need to remove power to do home maintenance or repairs on or around a circuit, you’ll know without a doubt which cir­cuit to shut off.


To be on the safe side, remember this rule of thumb:


For 15 amps, keep it under 1500 watts.
For 20 amps, keep it under 2000 watts.

Electrical > Indoor Electrical Safety Check - 01

TIPS FOR THE SAFE INDOOR USE OF ELECTRICITY


INSPECT AND PROTECT!
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INSPECTION


In a number of cases of electrical-related home structure fires investigated by the CPSC, homes ranging from 40 to 100 years old had not been inspected since they were built. Just like any product, our electrical sys­tems gradually deteriorate with use, abuse, age and increased demand. Systems installed in the 70s and earlier likely never anticipated the demand we place on them today. To ensure the electrical safety of your home, your elec­trical inspection should be up-to-date, defects corrected, and service upgraded to meet pres­ent and foreseeable demands.

We recommends asking the following questions to determine whether you need to have your home electrically inspected:

• Is your home 40 years old or older?
• Has your home had a major addition or renovation or major new appliance add­ed, such as a refrigerator, freezer, air con­ditioner or electric furnace, in the last 10 years?
• Are you the new owner of a previously owned home?
• Do your lights often flicker or dim mo­mentarily?
• Do your circuit breakers trip or fuses blow often?
• Are your outlet and light switch face plates hot to the touch or discolored?
• Do you hear crackling, sizzling or buzzing from your outlets?
• Do you have extension cords and mul­tiple power strips permanently in use around the house?
  If you answer yes to any one of the above questions, you should consider having a qual­ified, licensed electrical inspector, electrician or electrical contractor perform an electrical inspection of your home. Depending on the size of the home, a basic inspection could take between 30 minutes to an hour.

We rec­ommends that at a minimum the inspection should check the following items:

• Check the capacity of the electrical service to the house and provide a load test. Is the service adequate for present and foresee­able demands?
• Check the quality of the exposed wiring including the service entrance if above ground.
• Check for excessive voltage drop at recep­tacles.
• Inspect the panel box and check the con­dition of all connections.
• Check the wiring of receptacles, switches, and light fixtures, and check for proper lamp wattages.
• Verify for polarity and ground wiring at the receptacles.
• Check for required ground fault circuit in­terrupters and test each.
• Identify the type of wiring (aluminum or copper) and check for the proper size of conductors and the presence of overcur­rent protection.
• Check the type of wiring insulation (i.e., cloth or thermaplastic) and for wir­ing insulation condition and temperature rating.
• Check the age and type of various compo­nents of the electrical system.
• Check for presence and proper placement of smoke alarms and test each one.
• Check for appropriate surge suppression, and for areas of the country that experi­ence a lot of lightning, consider a surge arrester.

Electrical > Test Before You Touch - 02

Electrical Safety for Home and Work Place

Safety Can Safe Yor Live


Many injuries, deaths and property damage caused by electrical hazards can be avoided. If you are not experienced in working directly with electricity and trained to recognize and avoid electrical hazards, consider hiring a certified electrician for your electrical work. For those experienced in working with electricity, these points can help remind you of basic electrical safety practices. The first step in avoiding these hazards begins with safety. Before undertaking any type of electrical work, plan your job and include all necessary steps to ensure your safety and the safety of those around you. And always TEST BEFORE YOU TOUCH.



AROUND THE HOUSE

• Understand your electrical system. Make a map showing which fuse or circuit breaker controls each switch, light or outlet.
• Wear the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
• Ensure the right circuits are turned off before starting to work.
• Make sure the circuits cannot be accidentally turned back on while you are working.
• Use a circuit tester, and make sure it is working properly by testing it before and after you test the circuit where you will be working.

ON THE JOB

Electrical hazards on the job can be avoided by following approved NFPA 70E and OSHA guidelines. Attention to safety is the important first step to an effective safety program. Skilled employees, trained in electrical safety procedures, should make sure they understand and follow safety precautions.

Those not trained to recognize and avoid electrical hazards, or not under the supervision of those qualified in electrical safety procedures, should avoid contact with electrical equipment and systems.

• Understand the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and the hazards involved.
• Identify all possible energy sources that could pose on-the-job hazards.
• Know safety requirements and follow them.
• Calculate the energy potential.
• Select the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE). Remember, PPE must be worn until the electrical system is in a safe condition.
• Complete a detailed job plan and communicate it to all coworkers.
• Before working on or around electrical systems or equipment, identify the load circuits and disconnect. Remember, in some cases, turning power off may cause other hazards. Such hazards and additional guidance should be addressed in your work plan.
• Use lock-out/tag-out procedures.
• Verify that the equipment or system has been de-energized by testing.
• Make sure your test equipment is working, both before and after you use it.
• If at any time the job becomes more hazardous than anticipated, stop and revise the plans.

Above all, never assume that the equipment or system is de-energized. Remember to always TEST BEFORE YOU TOUCH.

Electrical > Test Before You Touch - 01

Electrical Safety for Home and Work Place

Understanding The Risk

Electrical hazards, while a fraction of total workplace injuries, are more likely to result in death than injuries from other causes.

• Electrical accidents on the job cause an average of 13 days away from work and nearly one fatality every day.
• Approximately 62 percent of an estimated 32,807 nonfatal electrical injuries occurring between 1992 and 1998 were classified as electric shock and 38 percent as electric burns.
• The nonfatal workplace incidents that cause the highest number of days away from work include contact with an electrical current or a machine, tool, appliance or light fixture (38 percent), and contact with wiring, transformers or other electrical components (33 percent).
• Nonfatal electrical injury occurs most often to those who work with machines or tools and around electrical wiring other than power lines.

Electrical Safety > Is your home safe?

The first steps in making your home safe is knowing how the electrical system works and assessing the condition of the wiring.

Circuit breakers and fuse boxes

Take a few minutes to look at your home’s fuse box or circuit panel (usually located in a metal box on an outside wall near the electric meter). Each fuse or switch controls the electricity flowing through a specific area of your home. If too much electricity flows into a circuit, the fuse or breaker automatically creates a gap in the circuit to help prevent damage to the entire system.

• Make sure all breakers or fuses are labeled clearly so you know which circuits they control. If you’re not sure, turn off the breakers or remove the fuses and have a helper find which outlets are affected.
• To reset a circuit breaker, turn off and unplug the lights and appliances you were using. Then flip the breaker switch “off” first, then back to “on.” If you have push-button breakers, push it all the way in to reset.
• To replace a blown fuse, turn off the appliances and lights you were using. Turn off the main switch on the fuse box and check to see which one has blown.
• Be sure the replacement fuse is the proper size; using a fuse that’s too large for the circuit can cause an electrical fire.
• Never substitute an object, such as a coin or a paper clip, for a fuse.
• If it’s dark, use a flashlight — not a candle.

Keep in mind that circuit breakers and fuses are designed to protect your home’s electrical system — NOT to protect you and your family from electrical injuries.

A blown fuse or tripped breaker is a signal that something went wrong. The problem could be from outside your home, such as a power surge during a lightning storm, or it could be from inside, if too many devices were used in a single circuit or if the wiring was done incorrectly.

If you’re experiencing any off these problems, call a certified electrician to inspect the entire system:

• Frequent tripped breakers or blown fuses
• Power “blinks” (momentary interruptions)
• Dimming or flickering lights
• Sizzling or buzzing noises
• Loose or damaged outlets
• Overheating of the circuit panel or any outlets or switches

Electrical Safety > Using Eectricity Safety

While most electrical fires are caused by faulty wiring or overloaded circuits, most electrocutions in the home are caused by improper or careless use of appliances and small electrical devices. Electrical accidents can occur in any room in your home — and outdoors — so always be on the lookout for opportunities to eliminate safety hazards.


Inside your home

• Cover all electrical outlets and wall switches with cover plates, and replace any that are damaged.
• Protect small children and pets by using plastic safety covers in all unused outlets and keeping cords out of sight and reach. A cord as short as 12 inches can strangle a child.
• Don’t yank electrical cords from the wall — this can damage both the plug and the outlet.
• Don’t attach a cord to another surface with nails or staples which could break the insulation. Try not to twist, bend or walk on cords.
• Don’t use damaged or brittle electrical cords, even if bare wires aren’t visible.
• Make sure all electrical devices are in good repair — double-insulated tools and appliances are the safest. If a damaged wire inside a tool or appliance touches the body of the device, it would be the same as touching a bare wire. Never attempt to fix an electrical appliance or tool unless the unit is unplugged.
• Use extension cords only on a temporary basis, and don’t plug one extension cord into another.
• If you need to plug multiple devices into a single outlet, as with a home office or entertainment system, use a quality surge suppressor with enough sockets for every component. Don’t use inexpensive outlet “extenders” with three or four sockets.
• Keep all electrical devices away from water sources.
• Don’t run electrical cords under carpets — this can cause them to overheat and catch fire. Also avoid running cords under furniture, which can damage the insulating cover.
• If you need to turn off the power to install lighting or replace an outlet, flag the fuse or breaker switch so no one else touches it while you’re working. If you’re not sure which circuit you’ll be working on, turn off the main breaker switch or remove the primary fuse cartridge.

Outdoor Safety Tips:

• All outdoor outlets, including those in garages, should have waterproof covers and GFCIs (see page 7).
• If you’ll be using a ladder or pole, or working on the roof, always look up for power lines. Even wooden ladders can conduct electricity through their metal screws. Stay at least 10 feet away from overhead power lines
• Don’t assume the black coating on wires is insulation — it could be just plastic weatherproofing that provides no protection from contact injuries.
• Call a professional for help trimming trees near power lines, and don’t let kids climb trees near power lines.
• Keep flying toys like balloons, kites and model airplanes away from power lines.
• Keep electrical devices and cords away from water.
• If you have a pad mount transformer (usually a large green metal box) in your yard, keep children and pets away. If the door is open or the lock is broken, give us a call to have a customer service mechanic fix it. Don’t disguise the transformer with paint or plantings — a utility worker might need to work safely around it or find it quickly in an emergency.
• Teach kids to stay far away from substations, and explain what the warning signs mean. If a toy or pet accidentally gets inside a substation, give us a call — we’ll be happy to retrieve it for you.
• Don’t hang signs on utility poles. Nails, staples or tacks can pose a big danger to workers who must climb the poles.
• Never tamper with an electric meter (it’s dangerous and illegal), and keep it free of ice and snow during the winter.
• If a power line accidentally contacts your car in an accident or during a storm, stay in the vehicle until help arrives and don’t let others approach. If a fire is imminent and you need to leave the vehicle, hop out on both feet, being careful not to touch the car and the ground at the same time. Continue hopping with your feet together until you’re as far away as possible.

Electrical Safety > Grounding

A good ground connection is essential to the safe and reliable operation of any piece of electrical equipment. Electrical grounding ensures that if there is ever a short circuit on a piece of electrical equipment, current will flow through the ground system and trip a breaker or blow a fuse.
A grounded outlet has three holes for each plug. In a properly wired outlet, the rounded slot is the ground connection. A grounded outlet must be used correctly:

• Never cut off the third grounding prong on an appliance plug.
• Don’t try to install a grounded outlet in an ungrounded outlet box.
• Use “cheater” adapter plugs only on a temporary basis. Use ony if the outlet box is grounded, and make sure the small metal circle or the pigtail adapter contacts the screw in the middle of the outlet.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt

For an added measure of protection, outlets near water sources, like sinks and laundry appliances, as well as all garage and outdoor outlets, should have a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). These are the outlets with the “test” and “reset” buttons.

A GFCI works by monitoring the flow of electricity through the outlet’s circuit. If there is any variation in the current, the GFCI will automatically cut off the flow of electricity, preventing injury. According to the Consumer Products Safety Commission, if every household used GFCIs, deaths from electrocution in and around the home could be reduced by 50 percent.

There are four types of GFCIs:

• “Whole-house” devices for circuit panels that protect against external power surges. These should be installed only by a certified electrician.
• Whole circuit devices for circuit panels, that are used in place of circuit breakers. These should be installed only by a certified electrician.
• Receptacle-based protectors that replace standard wall outlets. You can install these yourself by carefully following manufacturer’s instructions.
• “Portable” units that simply plug into a wall outlet. Any homeowner can use this type.

GFCIs should be tested every month. Plug a lamp or radio into a GFCI outlet and turn it on. Push the “test” button on the outlet; the lamp or radio should turn off immediately. If it doesn’t, the GFCI has been wired improperly or is no longer functioning.

GFCIs are inexpensive and provide the best protection against electrical hazards, and we strongly recommend using them in your home. But remember, even the best GFCI can’t offer 100% protection, so never forget other electrical safety rules.

Electrical Safety > How Electricity Work?

Few things improve our lives more than the electricity we use every day. At the flip of a switch or the push of a button, it’s always there to help make our homes more comfortable and secure. It’s easy to take the comforts of electricity for granted — but taking its dangers for granted can be deadly.

We want to help you get the most value from your energy, and that includes helping you use it safely.

In this brochure, you’ll find great tips on:

• Checking your home’s wiring and circuit panel
• Using appliances safely
• Staying safe indoors and out

Read on to learn more about playing it safe around electricity!


How Electricity Work?

Before learning how to keep your home safe, it’s important to understand why:

• Electricity always tries to find the easiest path to the ground.
• Electricity flows easily through water.
• The human body is 70 percent water.

These three facts add up to a very dangerous situation for anyone who gets too close to an electrical current. Many people think if they are shocked, they can pull away and not get hurt. But electricity travels at the speed of light, so a person has virtually no chance of pulling away without injury. Electricity can also jump through the air to find the easiest path to the ground, so injuries can occur even if no direct contact is made.

An electric shock affects the body in several ways:

• Muscle contractions lock the victim into the circuit.
• Chest muscles contract, causing difficulty breathing and unconsciousness.
• Heartbeat is interrupted and veins are constricted.
• Burns occur at the entrance and exit points of the current.
• Partial or total paralysis can occur.

If an electrical emergency occurs, it’s important to know how to respond without getting hurt yourself.

• Do not touch the victim until the circuit has been turned off — unplug the appliance from the outlet or turn off the power at the fuse box or circuit breaker first.
• Call 911, making sure to tell the dispatcher it is an electrical accident.
• If you’re sure the circuit has been turned off, administer first aid (CPR or mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, if you are certified).
• Always seek medical help for an electrical contact accident. Electricity burns from the inside out, so some injuries might not be visible; your heart also can be affected several hours after the contact.

Electrical > Grounding System for Electric Fence

The majority of electric fence problems relate to grounding concerns. This factsheet looks at the
two methods of system grounding commonly used and how to test a grounding system.



THE EFFECT OF SOIL CONDITIONS

Electric fences are designed so the animal will complete the electrical circuit upon touching the fence wire. This forms the closed circuit required for electrons to flow. For simplicity, the standard electric fence uses the earth as the “return” leg of the circuit. This is only effective if the conductivity is good, as in moist soil.

If the soil is dry, frozen or snow covered the conductivity is reduced which reduces the effectiveness of the electric fence. For areas that receive 24 inches or less annual precipitation (or where the precipitation is poorly distributed throughout the year), a “wire return” system should be used.


GROUNDING IN MOIST EARTH CONDITIONS ( Earth Return )


This is the standard grounding situation. The moisture in the earth is sufficient to allow a flow of electrical current that will ensure a shock occurs. The critical component is the soil contact of the grounding rods. They connect the earth return current flow to the controller and must have good soil contact to ensure this flow is not restricted.

This requires:

• For safety reasons, a location for the grounding system that is at least 7 feet from any other electrical or telephone grounding system and from any building foundation (especially a dairy barn) or underground water piping
• A location where the wiring cannot be easily damaged or disconnected by livestock or machinery (see below regarding burial)
• A minimum of 3 galvanized steel earthing rods, driven into moist earth; (these need not be located right at the fence controller but must be at a moist earth location)
• A separation space between the rods of 6 feet
• A continuous length of wire for connection between the rods and the controller
• A standard electrical grounding clamp (noncorrosive) for each rod/wire connection.

A grounding system that will meet the Electrical Code for grounding uses the following standard electrical components:

• Galvanized steel ground rods, 6 feet x 5/8 inch diameter,
• Brass or copper clamps, and
• #6 bare copper wire from rods to controller.

Although a smaller wire size may be adequate, a #6 wire may be directly buried which is a good method to protect the system from damage. The grounding rods can be driven 6 or 8 inches below the earth surface, say into a small dug depression. The wire can be laid into a shallow trench, clamped to the rods, then buried. The wire may be buried all the way to the fence controller.

Note that where this controller ground is near a building with an electrical service, the wire from the ground rods to the controller should be insulated to avoid ‘cross grounding’.
In addition to this main grounding of the fence controller, secondary grounding of the nonelectrified fence wire(s) may be done as explained for the “wire return” systems.



GROUNDING IN DRY EARTH CONDITIONS ( Wire Return )

In dry, frozen or snow covered conditions the earth return system is not sufficient to ensure current flow that will produce a shock.

In these conditions, one or more fence wires are used for the return circuit to the fence controller (in addition to the earth return grounding of the fence controller). This method ensures a circuit when the animal touches both an energized wire and a grounded wire (in semiwet conditions, some current may also flow via the earth return). A shock then occurs even in these poor earth return conditions (i.e. dry, frozen or snow covered).

The nonelectrified fence wire(s) are connected to the main fence controller grounding system as well as to single groundrods located approximately every ½ mile along the fence line (more frequently in very dry conditions). These ground rods are the same as the main grounding rods. To ensure the animal can easily contact a “hot” wire and a grounded wire and there by receive a shock, alternating fence wires may be electrified and grounded. However, while being more effective, it may cause maintenance problems as any debris that may contact the fence wires will more easily short out the circuit then if contacting a “hot” wire and the earth.



SALT CORE GROUND RODS

For very dry sites the main ground rods may have high resistance to current flow. This can be greatly reduced by using the following technique (which adds salt around the ground rods to increase the soil
conductivity and a clay material to hold moisture):

• Auger or dig 3 holes for the ground rods that are at least 3 inches diameter by 4 feet deep, spaced 35 feet apart
• Fill each hole with a wet slurry of 2 parts Bentonite (a clay material sometimes called “driller’s mud”) and 1 part coarse salt
• Place a 4 foot by ½ or ¾ inch diameter stainless steel tube down the center of the hole (stainless because of the corrosive nature of salt)
• Cover the area with an inch or two of sand to reduce evaporation.

The ground wire is clamped to these tubes as before.
To ensure continued low resistance, these salt core ground rods can be watered during drought conditions.

TESTING THE GROUND SYSTEM

The earth return system of grounding a fence controller relies on the soil moisture conditions for current flow and these conditions change throughout the year.

To ensure continued fence performance, a yearly grounding check should be made, preferably at the driest season the fence is being used. The following procedure should be followed:

• About 300 feet from the controller connection to the fence, use 3 or 4 steel fence posts (or similar steel material) to create a dead short from an energized wire to the earth
• This will reduce the fence line voltage to less than 1000 volts and put the grounding system under load with a high flow of electrons trying to get through the soil back to the energizer
• Using a volt meter (suitable for electric fences), measure the voltage between the ground wire to the controller and the earth at least 3 feet from any ground rod
• If the grounding system is adequate the flow will all be handled by the ground rods and the meter reading will be very low (200 volts or so)
• A higher meter reading will indicate the grounding system cannot handle the flow and more ground rods are required
• Add another ground rod and repeat the test.

(An optional method is to skip the meter and simply grasp a ground rod with one hand and touch the earth with the other hand. A poor ground is indicated with a shock, the severity of which will depend upon the condition of the grounding system. This is not recommended except for the foolhardy.)

Work > Project Management Check List

Site Name :
Project Manager :


Phase 1: Concept
_ Concept Phase Opened in project management system (PMS)
_ PPA Created
_ PPA formally introduced in Project Meeting
_ PPA Reviewed by Management Team
_ PPA Signed
_ Concept Phase Closed in PMS
_ Concept Phase Checklist Provided to Director of Marketing

---

Site Name :
Project Manager :


Phase 2: Planning
_ Planning Phase Opened in PMS
_ FS Created
_ FS Reviewed by Development & Design Team
_ FS Reviewed by Partner
_ Prototype Developed
_ Prototype Signoff by Development & Partner
_ FS Partner Signoff
_ Paymentech paperwork started
_ Planning Phase Closed in PMS
_ Planning Phase Checklist Provided to DOM

---

Site Name :
Project Manager :


Phase 3: Development
_ Development Phase Opened in PMS
_ Demo login created for partner use (through Help Center)
_ PM Marketing Form Completed by PM & Delivered to MC
_ SLA Created
_ SLA Reviewed by Management Team
_ SLA Signed
_ MC Delivery of Marketing Plan to the PM
_ Testing Plan Created
_ Paymentech paperwork completed and submitted
_ Support Orientation Document Created
_ Change Management Documents Created (As Needed)
_ Change Management Document Signoff (As Needed)
_ Development Phase Closed in PMS
_ Development Phase Checklist Provided to DOM

---

Site Name :
Project Manager :


Phase 4: Testing
_ Testing Phase Opened in PMS
_ Testing Plan executed
_ Help Center Review & Testing
_ Application Revisions Completed (As Needed)
_ Application Review by Management Team
_ Executive Director Signoff on Application
_ Partner Signoff on Application
_ Testing Phase Closed in PMS
_ Testing Phase Checklist Provided to DOM

---

Site Name :
Project Manager :


Phase 5: Rollout
_ Rollout Phase Opened in PMS
_ Application Taken Live
_ Partner demo login blocked (Help Center)
_ Partner Application Orientation & Training
_ Marketing Plan Executed
_ Post Project Review Completed by Partner
_ Project Closeout Tasks Completed
_ Post Project Review Completed by Staff
_ Rollout Phase Closed in PMS
_ Rollout Phase Checklist Provided to DOM

Electrical Safety For The Home and Workplace

Turning Off the Power at the Cicuit Breaker Means it's Safe to Work, Right? WRONG

Every year, people are injured or killed bycircuits they thought were safely turned off.Simply shutting off the power is not enough.Hazardous conditions can still exist.Working with electricity requires thoroughplanning and extreme care. Whether you area do-it-yourselfer tackling a weekend projector an experienced contractor, learning andpracticing safe work habits can significantlyreduce your risk.That’s why you must always TEST BEFOREYOU TOUCH. You may not get a secondchance to learn this important lesson.


Understanding the Risks

Electrical hazards, while a fraction of totalworkplace injuries, are more likely to resultin death than injuries from other causes.

• Electrical accidents on the job causean average of 13 days away from workand nearly one fatality every day.
• Approximately 62 percent of anestimated 32,807 nonfatal electricalinjuries occurring between 1992 and1998 were classified as electric shockand 38 percent as electric burns.
• The nonfatal workplace incidents thatcause the highest number of days awayfrom work include contact with anelectrical current or a machine, tool,appliance or light fixture (38 percent),and contact with wiring, transformers orother electrical components (33 percent).
• Nonfatal electrical injury occurs mostoften to those who work with machinesor tools and around electrical wiringother than power lines.

Safe Can Safe Your Life

Many injuries, deaths and property damage causedby electrical hazards can be avoided. If you are notexperienced in working directly with electricity andtrained to recognize and avoid electrical hazards,consider hiring a certified electrician for yourelectrical work. For those experienced in workingwith electricity, these points can help remind youof basic electrical safety practices. The first step inavoiding these hazards begins with safety.

Before undertaking any type of electrical work, plan yourjob and include all necessary steps to ensure yoursafety and the safety of those around you. Andalways TEST BEFORE YOU TOUCH.

Around the House

Understand yourelectrical system. Makea map showing which fuseor circuit breaker controlseach switch, light or outlet.> Wear the appropriate personalprotective equipment (PPE).

• Ensure the right circuits areturned off before startingto work.
• Make sure the circuits cannotbe accidentally turned backon while you are working.
• Use a circuit tester, and make sure it is workingproperly by testing it before and after you testthe circuit where you will be working.

On the JOB

Electrical hazards on the job can be avoidedby following approved NFPA 70E and OSHAguidelines. Attention to safety is the importantfirst step to an effective safety program. Skilledemployees, trained in electrical safety procedures,should make sure they understand and followsafety precautions.

Those not trained to recognizeand avoid electrical hazards, or not under thesupervision of those qualified in electrical safetyprocedures, should avoid contact with electricalequipment and systems.

• Understand the construction and operationof the electrical equipment and the hazardsinvolved.
• Identify all possible energy sources that couldpose on-the-job hazards.
• Know safety requirements and follow them.> Calculate the energy potential.
• Select the appropriate personal protectiveequipment (PPE). Remember, PPE must beworn until the electrical system is in a safecondition.
• Complete a detailed job plan and communicateit to all coworkers.
• Before working on or around electrical systemsor equipment, identify the load circuits anddisconnect. Remember, in some cases, turningpower off may cause other hazards. Suchhazards and additional guidance should beaddressed in your work plan.
• Use lock-out/tag-out procedures.
• Verify that the equipment or system has beende-energized by testing.
• Make sure your test equipment is working,both before and after you use it.
• If at any time the job becomes more hazardousthan anticipated, stop and revise the plans.Above all, never assume that the equipment orsystem is de-energized. Remember to always TESTBEFORE YOU TOUCH.